Pio Cesare 2004 Barbaresco

With truffles, roses, and perhaps violets on the nose, this wine has a sense of perfumed levity that’s just irresistible. There’s a freshness here, though the fruit is far from the focus as the wine is rich with notes of cinnamon, cocoa, and Southeast Asian spices, especially on the finish. The tannins, while well-integrated, have some serious grip, and I expect this wine will continue to improve for a decade or more. And like all the best 2004 Barbarescos I’ve tasted, the restrained elegance of the vintage shines through beautifully here.

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