Domaine Gauby 2004 “Les Calcinaires” Cotes du Roussillon Villages

Rustic and classically styled, this wine is certainly not for everyone, though its deep-rooted sense of place and authenticity will make it irresistible to lovers of old-fashioned Languedoc-Roussillon bottlings. The nose smells of iron and warm ox blood at the start, but it’s cut with a velvety hint of sweet plum fruit. The tannic backbone here holds it all together beautifully, though I have a sneaking suspicion that a rare grilled rib-eye would soften it all up perfectly. The palate exhibits more purple fruit than you’d imagine, and it finishes with pronounced notes of thyme and mineral. Stock up on this one for barbecue season–I know I will.

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