L’Angolo di Vino, 6/21/2010
Filed Under The Wine World
Sicily, Part II
The Gambino winery sits in the shadows of Mount Etna near Linguaglossa, its terraced vineyards sloping toward the ring of towns that circle the still active volcano. The high altitude, tufarous soils are home to a range of indigenous varietals that thrive there and in other parts of the Etna DOC. Over lunch with the amiable Fabio Gambino I was able to sample several of the estate’s wines, of which the following trio stood out.
Cantari 2008 IGT …a rarity, Nerello Mascalese vinified in bianco. Pretty nose of mountain flowers and bushes, white fruits and green apples. Light but concentrated flavors with a savory mineral quality. Juicy citrus acidity with a dusty coating.
Tifeo 2008 Etna Bianco DOC…Scents of citrus, apple, orange blossoms, even the ubiquitous Sicilian broom. Deeply fruity with solid body. Stays fresh and mildly dry, evident but not overt acidity. Addition of Carricante gives it a fruit driven aftertaste and aromatic complexity.
Alicante 2008 IGT….A mouthful of intense, warm flavors still showing their youthful tannins. Semi-modern style full of red berries and hints of Mediterranean spices. Core of acidity keeps the concentrated fruit in balance. An intersting take on Grenache.
Some other noteworthy wines encountered along the strada del vino……
Duca di Salaparuta 2008 “Calanica” IGT…Inzolia buttressed by a small dose of Chardonnay, which rounds it off but does not blunt the zesty beam of acidity that keeps it lively. Perfumed and flowery waves of honeysuckle and fresh melons. A bracing salinity that adds a uniquely local feel.
Planeta 2008 “Plumbago” IGT….Nero d’Avola, not as dense as one from Noto, but cherries and red currants are here backed by loamy earth and woodsmoke. Redolent of the island’s southern coast, enhanced by exotic spices. Smooth finish of darker berries and plums. Delicious.
Fondo Antico 2009 Grillo “Perlante” IGT…From the Trapani area, perhaps the best site for this varietal. Lighter than usual, smooth, rounded. Fresh and fruity aromas of melons and wildflowers. Crisp acidity, finishes with more gusto than the start.
Milazzo 2003 “Terre della Baronia” IGT….Silky, flavorful blend of Nero d’Avola and Perricone. Smoky nose of red fruit and earth. Bursts of acidity keep it vigorous. Pleasant and well articulated cherries and seasonal fruits. Versatile, structured, and food friendly.
Cantine Florio 1998 “Terre Arse Vergine” Marsala….From a well respected master of the style. Complex layers of apricots, liquory raisins, citrus, nuts, brown sugar. Picks up intense flavors of dried fig and honey. Not truly viscous, there are recurring hints of sweetness in this slightly dry and balanced wine.
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L’Angolo di Vino, 6/16/2010
Filed Under The Wine World
Sicily, Part I
A recent trip to Persephone’s island afforded the opportunity to taste dozens of wines made from indigenous varietals, all of which captured the sun drenched, arid landscape of Sicily, and gave evidence of the cultural and enological diversity to be found there.
Chiara Planeta, one of fifteen cousins who operate the family winery at Sambuca di Sicilia, believes that Sicilian winemakers are at a critical point in elevating the image and quality of their wines in the international market. This was an opinion echoed by her colleagues in various parts of Sicily, from Etna to Trapani. If the following examples are representative of the future of Sicilian wines , they are on the proper course.
Benanti 2006 Nerello Mascalese “Rosso di Verzella” …Dense forest berries carry waves of flavor to a smooth, dark finish. Just enough rustic edge, with the acidity usually found in Etna wines.
Duca di Castelmonte 2009 Grillo “Notorious”…Rich golden color, slightly viscous look and texture. Soft citrus balanced with herb and mineral laced peaches. Full flavored and vibrant.
Castellucimiano 2007 Perricone…Somewhat floral with a touch of anise on the nose. Layers of dark cherries, berries and currants emerge. Persistant, with savory tannins and the typical Sicilian level of food friendly acidity.
Baglio Fici 2008 Inzolia…Mildly viscous and a mouthfeel that is almost amabile. Extremely ripe peaches and melons, layers of exotic fruitiness. Mildly herbaceous with dried flower aromas.
Castellucimiano 2009 Catarratto…Clean pure nose and flavors of apples, citrus fruits, pears, and native wild underbrush. Crisp, precise attack leads to a persistantly fruity finish with cleansing acidity.
Foraci 2008 Grillo…Floral, semi-tropical scents with hints of hazelnut. the palate is enlivened by zesty acidity, picks up some floral elements midway along with a “green” quality to the mildly ripe fruits. A bitter almond finish reminiscent of a Verdicchio.
Planeta 2009 Grecanico “Alastro“…Prior to this vintage “Alastro” was a blend with Chardonnay. The ’09 is fuller and more interesting, just as dense but more rounded, with notable structure for a white. White fruits, minerals, and floral nuances might remind some of Soave, but this has more staying power.
Planeta 2009 Passito di Noto…A lush Moscato dessert wine. Loads of aromas and flavors – apricots, orange peel, dates, a touch of vanilla. Dense and creamy with hints of pastry spices, wildflowers. A lively burst of acidity keeps the sweetness in check and cuts through the concentreted texture.
Abraxas 2008 “Kuddia Del Gallo“…WOW!! A dry version of Zibbibo, the Moscato used in Marsala. Has all the flowers and fruits of a passito, though not as concentrated. Lightly perfumed apricots and orange blossoms. Intense, yet uplifted by refreshing acidity. More floral as a secco. Unique and interesting, even for Sicily,drinks full for a white.
Part II next week…some more tasting notes and observations.
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A Glass With the Cup
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It’s that time again. The quadrennial clash of football titans and global cultural phenomenon that is the World Cup. A chance for an international audience to get their xenophobia on…to wave flags and paint their faces in national colors. Or wear garish “native” outfits and toot vuvuzelos.
Since this coincides with the summer solstice, what better occcasion to sip light, refreshing white wines while cheering on your team of choice. True, not all the nations represented in South Africa are wine producers, but don’t let that stop you from quaffing one of these varietals. So wave a yellow card and pop the cork!
Portugal – Quinta de Azavedo Vinho Verde
France – Pascal Jolivet Sancerre ( Sauvignon Blanc)
Austria – Winzer Krems Gruner Veltliner
Italy – Planeta “La Segreta” Bianco
Argentina – Luiga Bosca Torrontes
Spain – Monte Clavio Rioja Blanco (Viura)
Greece – Boutari Moschifilero
Australia – Tahbilk Marsanne
Germany – JJ Prum Riesling Kabinett
South Africa – Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc (aka Steen)
As for the games themselves, all I can say is…FORZA ITALIA!!!
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L’Angolo di Vino, April 7, 2010
Filed Under The Wine World
Last October Wine Spectator had a feature on Sicily, the gist of which is that the island at the crossroads of the Mediterranean is undergoing an exciting transformation in its wine production. International favorites are joining indigenous varietals to create wines that reflect traditional styles as well as the “new” Sicily. Here are profiles of five I’ve recently sampled. The first three are the island’s most recognized native son – Nero d’Avola:
Valle dell’Acate 2006 “Il Morro” IGT…Dark, just ripening cherries predominate. Juicy “red” acidity, smooth texture. As it opens reveals fruit concentration. Sour cherry with some “amaro” on the end.
Firriato 2006 “Chiaramonte” IGT…Full aromas of dark fruit with dried herbs and chalk. Intense, warm flavors of berries, dark plums, raisins. Tannins have some grip but are offset by bright acidity. Depth without being overtly complex.
Planeta 2004 Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG…Adds the required 40% of Frappato to produce a nose of sweet fruits and medicinally astringent cherries. Soft and herbaceous with mildly tart strawberry flavors. Smooth and light, subtle Nero earthiness, cherry presence is persistant.
Palari 2003 “Rosso del Soprano” IGT …Truly Sicilian blend of Nerello Mascalese, Cappuccio, Nocera gives off perfumed aromas of jammy berries. Starts dry with spicy red-black fruits supported by youthful tannins, acidity opens up raspberry, dried olives, and foresty flavors. Musky and earthy finish.
Principe di Butera 2005 Syrah…Big dark plum and blackberry nose with wild forest fruits and tangy black olives. Full, dense, firm mouthfeel of jammy texture. Hints of Sicilian “macchia” and exotic spices. Ripe and fresh with barely noticeable tannins..varietal game and earth are on hold.
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L’Angolo di Vino, April 3, 2010
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File this in the”old dog, new tricks” category. I’ve never been a fan of Italian Merlot. The ones I’d had the misfortune to experience were thin, too vegetal, and in some cases gave off sour, vinegary scents and flavors. Not much to recommend there.
So…practicing what I preach, to never give up on a grape from a specific region without ample evidence, the search for a representative Merlot brought me to Friuli – and two excellent examples of the adaptability and diversity a varietal can offer.
The first came from Walter Scarbolo, a 2006 Friuli Grave DOC. Floral and herbaceous, it was more reserved and less concentrated than many of its New World cousins. Subdued tannins lurked beneath dark berry-cherry flavors in a smooth textured wine of typical Friulian depth and extraction, giving it a presence I hadn’t found in other versions from Italy.
The other was Livio Felluga’s 2000 “Sosso” Riserva from the Colli Orientali. From its opaque color to a dry, cedary finish it showed concentration and a solid tannic backbone that was still exerting a grip after a decade in bottle, but which faded quickly to reveal plummy dark fruits that were maturing well. The nose was ripe and pleasantly showing its age, with faint traces of slowly oxidizing. A stunning wine.
Nothing left to say except, “Bow wow!”
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L’Angolo di Vino, 2/24/2009
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If you’ve read any of the wine reviews I’ve posted over the last couple of years you are well aware of my fondness for the unusual, the eccentric, and the downright outside-the-box ( literally and figuratively) wines that pop up.
The latest discovery was Hilberg-Pasquero’s 2007 “Vareij”, a one of a kind blend of 80% Brachetto and 20% Barbera. As far as I know, no one else is attempting to merge these Piedmontese varietals, and if they are it’s doubtful the results could be more interesting.
It opens to intense aromas of spice and sharp red fruits, followed by waves of blueberries and exotic hints of cumin that may remind some of Lacrima di Morro d’Alba from Marche. The fruit stays ripe and juicy, strawberries and red raspberries from the Brachetto, riding on a refreshing layerof acidity supplied by the Barbera. Refreshing and accessible.
The fact this is labeled a VdT may unintentionally be damning it with faint praise, especially among consumers looking for those DOC and DOCG “guarantees”. Hmmmm, weren’t there some Super Tuscans that began life as VdT’s?
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L’Angolo di Vino, 2/16/2009
Filed Under The Wine World
Monastero Suore Cistercensi 2007 “Coenobium”, Lazio
You have to be a certain age to remember when cloyingly sweet Riesling with a “Blue Nun” label was all the rage, or, more to the point, what was available to wine drinkers of modest means.
The nuns who produce ”Coenobium” near the town of Vitorchiano,north of Rome, have blended a wine of depth and complexity that won’t leave anyone who tries it feeling the least bit blue. With consultation from Giampiero Bea, son of Montefalco’s Paolo, the good sisters have elevated Trebbiano Toscana above its often pedestrian persona – first, by blending it with Grechetto, Malvasia, and Verdicchio; second, by allowing the juice to remain in contact with the skins for about two weeks.
The result is a medium bodied wine that fills the mouth with just-ripe peach and apricot flavors that take on a savory, earthy quality. Aromas of herbs, dried flowers and chalky minerals keep rising to the surface. There’s a solid core of flavor aided by persistant acidity that delivers sensations of warmth all the way to a mildly dry finish. In a word, delicious.
Paradoxically, this is a wine that remains relatively obscure even though approximately 80% of the total production per year is shipped to the States, a little over 3000 cases.
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L’Angolo di Vino, 2/2/10
Filed Under The Wine World
As promised, some more of the interesting wines Icame across the last two months.
Tenuta Roveglio 2008 Lugana…Trebbiano is one of the more maligned Italian varietals, sometimes deservedly so. But when done right, such as this Trebbiano di Soave branch of the family tree, it can be crisp, fruity and provide texture and depth. Peach and focused pear flavors stand out but give way to a juicy citrus finish that keeps it refreshing. Has a semi-amabile feel.
Zamo 2007 Ribolla Giallo…A masterful blend that includes Friulano, Sauvignon Blanc, and Riesling. Mildly herbal with a hint of the pungent aromatics of the Sauvignon allied with the subdued fruitiness and creamy texture of Tocai. Picks up Riesling’s lemon/lime acidity, along with the crisp minerals you’d expect from a Colli Orientali bianco. Great with seafood.
Colli deo Bardellini 2007 Vermentino” U Munte”…There’s some decent heft in this smooth, mouthcoating Ligurian wine. Less of the usual coastal salinity, but lively acidity lifts the peach and tropical melon flavors and maintains the bright, zesty feeling throughout. Some hints of chalky minerals add interest and complexity.
Girolamo Dorigo 2006 Schioppettino….Ribolla’s Friulian cousin carries peppery and floral aromatics up front before delivering full bodied and smooth dark plums and blackberries bolstered by scorched earth and minerals.The tannins stay mild and support cassis and black raspberry undertones on the finish.Â
Eraldo Viberti 2005 Langhe Nebbiolo…While this doesn’t have the breadth or depth of other versions from the area it stays true to its varietal and sense of place. Typical subdued nose, only with more herbal notes, which continue on the palate and give the fruit flavors a rustic, forest feel. Smooth, light tannins play off the tart and juicy acidity. Actually becomes more dry as it proceeds, adding a bitter earth aftertaste.
Emidio Pepe 2003 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo…. When you reach the point where you feel that all Italian wines are starting to taste the same and you can’t tell a Chianti from a Cali Cab (which hopefully never happens!), this is the wine to lift you from the depths of standardized despair. Though the fruit is slightly more concentrated, given its hot vintage, the uncompromising authenticity that marks this producer remains true. Deep, bold, evocative….try a bottle and supply your own adjectives.
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L’Angolo di Vino, 1/25/10
Filed Under The Wine World
It’s been a month since the holidays and I’m just now going over my notes for some of the wines consumed during those festive evenings, and some of the bottles subsequently emptied to ward off Seasonal Affective Disorder. As if anyone needs an excuse to drink…
So… brief reviews of four reds from the Mezzogiorno and a classic white from Marche…
Messapicus 2004 Copertino Riserva …Smooth, easy drinking Puglian blend of Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera, Montepulciano and Sangiovese defined by focused flavors of plums and dark berries with touches of leather, herbs, figs and spice. There’s even a burst of liqoury cherries bathed in licorice in this food friendly wine.
Odoardi 2004 Savuto…A Calabrian meritage? Gaglioppo, Greco Nero, Cappuccino, Magliocco Canino, and Sangiovese present the typical southern profile of tar, herbs, new leather and funky forest floor. Tasty, smooth, and rustic all at once with balanced dark fruit flavors and balsamic undertones. Unique and interesting.
Santa Lucia 2006 Vigna del Melograno Castel del Monte…rings true for this DOC in Puglia - spicy and fruity with mildly gripping tannins and intense aromas and flavors of plum, black cherries, raspberries. Juicy acidity keeps the tannins at bay, allowing the herbal and floral notes to hang around through a balanced finish.
La Sibella 2008 Piedirosso…Still showing its youthful ruby red color and Pinot-like reserve. Undercurrents of sour cherry are overtaken by wild, forest fruits and the earthiness of Campania. Terroir induced dried herbs and a “piney” quality are evident and persistant in this light bodied, slightly tart offering that could use a little time to evolve. Â
Sartarelli 2007 Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi…Stylish and classy, a well made expression of this DOC, it’s all about flavor and texture, with mouth coating varietally correct fruits that effortlesly roll around the palate. Not as saline as other versions from this area, it nontheless evokes the qualities you’d expect from a maritime wine. Mint, an invigorating  wave of minerals, and the aftertaste of roasted almonds. This is a lot of wine for less than $20!
Next week we’ll add some northern whites and reds from Friuli and Piemonte, as well as revisiting an old friend from Abruzzo.
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Smacking Each Other Down
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To celebrate the notoriety we’ve garnered thanks to being singled out by World Wrestling megabucks impressario Vince McMahon, we recently held a mano a mano a mano red wine competition featuring  three of Philly’s well known wine educators – Brian “Il Cavallino” Freedman, Collin “The Rookie” Flatt, and a man we all respect (well, most of the time) Keith “El Jefe” Wallace.
The judges for the blind tasting were not professional tasters or writers. They reperesented the vox populi, just a random group of wine lovers. Results were tabulated by the accounting firm of Dewey Cheetum & Howe.
In Round #1, Collin’s pick of a Widberry Estate Cabernet from Australia’s Margaret River region brutalized Brian’s Catena Malbec..ususlly a crowd pleaser.
Round #2 saw El Jefe’s Touriga Nacional (which drew a “Huh?!?” from the crowd) put to rest by the Chateau Coufran Haut Medoc Brian selected, a rarity for a Left Bank wine in that Merlot was the featured grape.
On to Round #3 where both wines proved to be crowd pleasers as Collin’s spritely Rhone red from Mas de Libian narrowly outpaced Keith’s Ryan Patrick Bordeaux style blend from Washington’s Columbia Valley.
At that juncture both Collin and Keith had amassed 141 points, leaving Brian to contemplate whether or not to renew his membership in the Jimmy Johnson Tonsorial Club for Men. The Championship Round was a lesson in humility for The Rookie as Keith’s Espelt “Sauro” from Emporida in Spain blew away his Sella & Mosca Cannonau from Sardinia.
So, to the winner go the spoils and bragging rites (and, yes, the spelling is intentional). He will get to smack his competitors in a manner he chooses, as yet to be determined. Hmmmm…how about a version of the Python’s Fish Slapping Dance?
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