Italian Pick of The Week, 2/25/08
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Mauro Molino Barolo, 2000, Piemonte
What makes a Barolo truly great? Or how does one make a great Barolo? Two sides of the same coin in the ongoing debate among the “modernists” and “traditionalists” of Piemonte, who are both seeking the same goal - production of Barolos worthy of assuming the mantle of Wine of Kings, and King of Wines.
Mauro Molino’s Barolo would fit into the modernist camp, a wine already drinking well and fully realized from a stellar vintage. You are treated to the requisite Nebbiolo perfume of roses and earth, soft and inviting. This wine rolls onto the palate, layers of earth and tobacco carrying fruits that become darker mid-way through and continue to a finish of dry leaves. Unlike the old style Barolos that needed a decade or more of bottle aging to be tamed, the tannins are finely integrated with unobtrusive acidity that speak well of this wine’s potential to age gracefully.
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Wine 101:For Thomas Damasco, 2/23/08
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Sauvignon Republic Sauvignon Blanc, 2006, Russian River Valley (CA)
Cousino-Macul “Antiguas Reserva” Chardonnay, 2006, Maipo (CH)
Falesco Sangiovese 2006, Umbria (IT)
Las Rocas “San Alejandro” Garnacha, 2005, Calatayud (SP)
Earthworks Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006, Barossa Valley (AU)
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Italy: Terroir Or Not Terroir, 2/26/08
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Abbazia di Novacella Sylvaner, 2005, Alto-Adige
Vicentini Agostino Soave “Terre Lunghe”, 2006, Veneto
Fattoria di Corsignano Chianti Classico Riserva, 2003, Toscana
Fattoria di Fiano “Ugo Bing” Chianti Riserva, 2004, Toscana
Duale “Bacco d’Oro” Nerello Calabrese, 2004, Calabria
Rossetti Nero d’Avola, 2005, Sicilia
Angelo Negri Roero “Prachiosso”, 2001 Piemonte
Triacca “Sassella” Valtellina Superiore, 2003, Lombardia
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Intermediate Section, Spain & Portugal, 2/20/08
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Orballo Albarino, 2006, Rias Baixas DO
Luna Beberide Bierzo DO, 2005
Legaris Ribeira del Duero Crianza DO, 2003
Monticillo Rioja Gran Reserva DOCa, 1998
Pablo Garnacha “Menguante”, Carinena DO, 2005
Vall LLach “embruix” Priorat DOCa, 2003
Bodegas Olivares Alto de la Hoya Monastrell, Jumilla DO, 2005
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Italian Pick of the Week, 2/18/08
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Cantine dei Colli Ripani Passerina “Ninfa Ripana”, 2004, Marche
Verdicchio has been the shining star of white wine from the Marche since Fazzi-Battaglia hit the market with its fish shaped bottle over thirty years ago.Lesser known whites were pushed even farther into the background.
The Offida zone in Ascoli Piceno province is a relatively new DOC, having attained that status in 2001. Here, those once forgotten grapes are given their due. Passerina, the local name for the more widely planted Biancame, has risen from blending obscurity to join the ranks of authentic and interesting native varietals. It is bottled in both dry and passito styles and some producers use it for Brut and Vin Santo.
This version combines the smoothness and mildly bitter nuttiness of Verdicchio with the hazelnut-dewy pine- resin of a Fiano from Campania. Neither of those stalwarts has the buzzy acidity, pinpoint flavors and minerality of this eye opener from the Ripana hills. Its texture and lively mouthfel make it a suitable companion for salty antipasti, shellfish, or fish-based soups.
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Director’s Cut: Up and Coming Regions, 2/15/08
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Back To The Future: Campania
Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina, 2005
Aminea Fiano di Avellino, 2005
East Of Reisling: Austria
Weingut Hofer Gruner Veltliner, 2005, Neiderosterreich
J. Pockl Zweigelt “Monchof”, 2004, Burgenland
Northwest Iberia
Quinta de Ventozelo Cistera da Ribeira, 2003, Douro, Portugal
J. Palacios Bierzo “Petalos”, 2005, Galicia, Spain
Cape of South Africa: Stellenbosch
Bilton Shiraz-Merlot “Matt Black”, 2004
Jardin Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004
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Wine 101 at Jack’s 2/16/08
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Meulenhof Riesling Kabinett, 2005, Mosel (GER)
Mastroberardino Sannio Falanghina, 2004, Campania (IT)
Buitenverwachting Sauvignon Blanc “Beyond”, 2006 (S. AF.)
Simi Russian River Chardonnay, 2004, Sonoma (US)
Roaring Meg Pinot Noir, 2006, Central Otago (NZ)
Las Rocas Garnacha, 2005, Calatayud (SP)
Craneford Shiraz “Allyson Parsons”, 2005, Barossa Valley (AU)
Earthworks Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006, Barossa Valley (AU)
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Intermediate Class: France 2/13/08
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Sauvignon Blanc
Ch. Cantelys 2003 Pessac-Leognan (Bordeaux)
Regis Manet 2005 Pouilly Fume (Loire)
Blanc de Bourgogne
Simmonet-Febvre 2005 Chablis “Vaillons”
Vins Eouges du Nord
Ch. Chandon de Brialles 2002 Pernand-Vergelesses (Burgundy)
Cave de Saumur Saumur Reserve (Loire)
La Rive Gauche)
Ch. Greysac 2003 Medoc (Bordeaux)
The Rhone: South to North
Dom. Mas du Bouquet 2004 Vacqueyras
Alain Paret 2000 Saint-Joseph “Rochecourbe”
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Italian Pick of The Week, 2/04/08
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Gaudio Grignolino “Brico Mandolino”, 2005, DOC, Piemonte
One of the fascinating aspects of Italian wine is the number of varietals that are under the radar, especially in areas of renown such as Tuscany and the Piedmont. It’s hard to acquire cachet when you’re up against Brunello and Classico, Barolo and Barbaresco….which is the fate of Grignolino.
Grown in the communes of Asti and Monferrato Casale since Medieval times, the name may come from the local dialect term for grape seed. Typically it has high levels of acidity and surprisingly strong tannins for a wine that is Pinot-like in color. In fact, one of it’s many local aliases is Nebbiolo Rosato.
This single vineyard version from Gaudio was harvested late to enhance its depth and extraction of flavor and pigment. Whereas some Grignolinos can be light and almost effervescent, this shows an integration of fruit and tannins in a balanced structure. Faint scents of roses can be found on a subtle nose. Just ripe enough red fruit is accompanied by white pepper and a dash of mildly tingling minerals. The overall effect is refreshing and eminently drinkable.
Because of the cutting acidity it can hold its own with cheese based dishes or creamy sauces, as well as aged local cheeses and crudo.
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French Wines For Less, 2/01/08
Filed Under Wine Tastings
Dom. Bernard Defaix Chablis “Cote de Lechet”, 2005, Burgundy
Southern Whites
Ch. Grande Cassagne Costieres de Nimes, 2005, Languedoc-Roussilon
J. Vidal-Fleury Cotes du Rhone Blanc, 2005
Middle Ground
Dom. du Granit Moulin-a-Vent, 2004, Burgundy
Rhone Reds
Arnoux “Vieux Clocher” Vacqueyras, 2004
Calvet-Thunevin “Cuvee Constance”, 2005, Cotes de Catalanes
The Powerhouse:Bordeaux
Ch. Haut Nadeau Bordeuax Superiore
Ch. Tour de Guiet Cotes de Bourg, 2003
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