Tom Corbett?
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In the Wine School’s August newsletter, I promoted a wine tasting/fundraiser in support of Tom Corbett for governor.
The endorsement startled many folks, since most assumed that I am a card-carrying liberal. After all, I am a former NPR journalist and Democratic operative from Massachusetts. So why would I support a Republican for the PA Governorship? There have been a great deal of rumors flying around, so I feel it is time to address a few points.
My reasons are quite straightforward: For the past decade, my job has been to educate and advocate for the wine consumers in the region, and I take that very seriously. My job also has a political component, for the obvious reason that the PA state agency that interprets the liquor laws –the PLCB– also has a monopoly on selling the product.
The PLCB has an awe-inspiring amount of power. As a state agency, it is an autonomous entity that is able to control how the liquor laws are interpreted and enforced without fear of reprisal. In fact, the PLCB is legally authorized to use the state police as their code enforcers. Plus, the agency generates about 2 billion dollars in revenue for the state annually, and it has a very strong union. All in all, the agency is impervious to reform… except when there is the potential to nominate a new Board of Directors. That only happens with the election of a new Governor.
After numerous private conversations earlier this year, I am certain that a Corbett governorship will be the best shot at reforming the PLCB. While i cannot speak on the record about most of my conversations, what it all comes down to is this: who is going to be on the PLCB board of directors?
Since this is the only shot we will have for 8 years, it’s really now or never. However, it still took me a months to finally make the announcement, since it goes against my personal political beliefs.
There has been some backlash to the announcement. The angry emails came within hours, and then an anonymous troll started a smear campaign via his new blog and the citywide forum Philadelphia Speaks.
The smear campaign has been met with widespread derision –the replies on Philadelphia Speaks are both intelligent and hilarious– and that has reinforced my conviction that I have done the right thing.
Keep in mind that I am not telling my fellow Dems to vote for Tom Corbett–this is by far not the only issue at stake this election season. I am simply addressing an important issue that deserves the consideration of all rational PA voters.
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Bulletin d’Info
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Three interesting articles involving France and its storied wines are on our radar this week.
First, Decanter.com reports that a bottle of 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay — the winner in the famous “Judgment of Paris” wine tasting of 1976 — has hit the auction block for a great cause, the Haitian charity “Friends of the Orphans.” Aside from a few bottles left in the winemaker’s cellar, and one bottle archived at the Smithsonian, it’s not known just how much remains in the world of this seminal wine. Bon chance to those bidding!
On the other side of the world, French politicians are working with partners in China to develop a “wine embassy” for educating the Chinese public. In addition to providing information on French denominations and winemaking regions, the founders hope to stem the recent uptick in the counterfeiting of French wines that has tarnished the reputation of some famous vintages. One question left unanswered in the article: Might the Ambassador of Champagne and Port consider the job?
Finally, the southern AOC of Languedoc — known until now for its seriously lackluster wines — hopes to raise its reputation with a new generation of vines planted not on the plains, but on its beautiful hills overlooking the Mediterranean. Andrew Jefford of FinancialTimes.com even posits that within a few decades these reds might contend with the best from Cote Rotie and Chateauneuf du Pape. Mon Dieu, pass the cassoulet and raise a toast to the end of the “wine lake“!
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Our Continued March Toward Vinodominance
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That unstoppable freight train known as The Sommelier Smackdown continues its long journey on Wednesday, July 28, at 7:30 PM.
This month’s contestant is none other than “Sexy” Paul Rodriguez, the mastermind of mixology and mirth at Jose Garces’ Village Whiskey. Ladies love him, lads wanna be him. All we want to do is take it to him, WineStyle.
Last month, we saw “Flutterin’” Frank Ciapparone stick-and-move his way past Christian Garces of Chifa, winning by a one-vote margin. This time around, the more well-heeled Rodriguez comes in against the youngest and blondest member of the Wine School Brigade, Collin “I’ll Knock You” Flatt.
After designing the wine lists at Garces’ flagship Amada and Basque-ian Tinto, Rodriguez turned his attention to mixed drinks and a whiskey list longer than his resume. Not a man to be taken lightly, for sure. But Flatt has been working out, running 5 miles a day and drinking 5 bottles a day to prepare for his upcoming donnybrook. He’s mossy, folks, MOSSY.
Please join us on the 28th for a Tussle of Vinodominance as The Wine School works its way through the ranks of the Garces Restaurant Group. We hope to see you there!
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Saying “Non” to Le GMO
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Protesters against the use of genetically modified organisms (GMO) in food products — widespread in Europe since the early aughts — now include top-flight French winemakers, such as Chateaux Smith-Haut-Lafitte and Mouton-Rothschild. This 400-member group, called Terre et Vin du Monde (Land and Wine of the World), has fomented against the French government’s recent, and quite controversial, decision to resume GMO trials on vines at a controlled agricultural testing facility near Colmar, in Alsace. The trials would introduce 70 GMO vines to a test site with the aim of creating vines resistant to grapevine fanleaf virus, a hugely devastating disease found throughout France. The arguments of the group — which would seemingly benefit from such a disease-resistant vine — are essentially twofold: For one, Alsatian winemakers fear contamination of their biodynamic vines located in close proximity to the testing site. Moreover, even if the project proved successful, the group shares the basic belief of many Europeans (and increasingly those of Americans) that the benefits of genetic modification can simply never outweigh the risks to public safety, and as a result, wines made from GMO vines would lose favor with the public on the open market.  In the minds of these winemakers at least, commercial viability and protection of the land are intrinsically linked, and they are willing to pay the price. For the full story on the Alsace trials, click here.
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The Science of Soil
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I loved this article from the Lancaster Farming website by Chris Torres, “A Systems Approach to Organic.”
It’s a quick, and fascinating, read about how California winemakers recently demonstrated to local growers — in a workshop sponsored by our unbeatable local resource, the Penn State Cooperative Extension — those methods proven to create healthy soil and raise organic vines notwithstanding our sticky climate on the East Coast. Apparently, the basic components for sustainable (and soil loving) agriculture remain the same no matter the location: employing integrated pest management (IPM), using minimal tillage and herbicides, increasing biodiversity, and introducing cover crops doused with ample compost. In fact, one local winemaker, Ed Boyce of Black Ankle Vineyards, has taken to using dish soap and canola oil to control pests, and hand weeding to control weeds. This doesn’t make for cheap wines — his starting prices reach $26 a bottle — but how wonderful that the sustainable ethos is spreading to an area with as many winemaking challenges as we find here in the tristate area.
This piece also reminded me of a lovely portrait of a New Zealand winemaker in the Guardian a few weeks back. “A Working life: The Winemaker“, by Mark Tran, will take you on a stroll through Chapel Down’s vineyards with winemaker Andrew Parley who, while detailing the vast amounts of hard work that go into production, still conveys the love of soil and craft that spurs winemakers through each bud break and harvest season. Don’t miss the snapshot of what it’s really like to live full-time in the world of wine at the end of the article.
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A Cellar Fit for a Queen
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Props to the British government: its wine cellar reportedly holds bottles valued in excess of $1.3M from the likes of Chateaux Lafite, Margaux, and Mouton Rothschild. The wines are apparently at the disposal of the British foreign services department during lavish state banquets. Although officials assure the British public that all these beauties were purchased at below market rates, many are calling for a complete divestment in light of crushing budget deficits. Interested to know which dignitaries are treated to the top shelf selections? Unfortunately that’s considered “commercially sensitive” information. One sure thing: those civil servants gifted with the job of sampling from this cave are among the luckiest government stiffs ever. The full BBC report here.
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L’Angolo di Vino, 6/21/2010
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Sicily, Part II
The Gambino winery sits in the shadows of Mount Etna near Linguaglossa, its terraced vineyards sloping toward the ring of towns that circle the still active volcano. The high altitude, tufarous soils are home to a range of indigenous varietals that thrive there and in other parts of the Etna DOC. Over lunch with the amiable Fabio Gambino I was able to sample several of the estate’s wines, of which the following trio stood out.
Cantari 2008 IGT …a rarity, Nerello Mascalese vinified in bianco. Pretty nose of mountain flowers and bushes, white fruits and green apples. Light but concentrated flavors with a savory mineral quality. Juicy citrus acidity with a dusty coating.
Tifeo 2008 Etna Bianco DOC…Scents of citrus, apple, orange blossoms, even the ubiquitous Sicilian broom. Deeply fruity with solid body. Stays fresh and mildly dry, evident but not overt acidity. Addition of Carricante gives it a fruit driven aftertaste and aromatic complexity.
Alicante 2008 IGT….A mouthful of intense, warm flavors still showing their youthful tannins. Semi-modern style full of red berries and hints of Mediterranean spices. Core of acidity keeps the concentrated fruit in balance. An intersting take on Grenache.
Some other noteworthy wines encountered along the strada del vino……
Duca di Salaparuta 2008 “Calanica” IGT…Inzolia buttressed by a small dose of Chardonnay, which rounds it off but does not blunt the zesty beam of acidity that keeps it lively. Perfumed and flowery waves of honeysuckle and fresh melons. A bracing salinity that adds a uniquely local feel.
Planeta 2008 “Plumbago” IGT….Nero d’Avola, not as dense as one from Noto, but cherries and red currants are here backed by loamy earth and woodsmoke. Redolent of the island’s southern coast, enhanced by exotic spices. Smooth finish of darker berries and plums. Delicious.
Fondo Antico 2009 Grillo “Perlante” IGT…From the Trapani area, perhaps the best site for this varietal. Lighter than usual, smooth, rounded. Fresh and fruity aromas of melons and wildflowers. Crisp acidity, finishes with more gusto than the start.
Milazzo 2003 “Terre della Baronia” IGT….Silky, flavorful blend of Nero d’Avola and Perricone. Smoky nose of red fruit and earth. Bursts of acidity keep it vigorous. Pleasant and well articulated cherries and seasonal fruits. Versatile, structured, and food friendly.
Cantine Florio 1998 “Terre Arse Vergine” Marsala….From a well respected master of the style. Complex layers of apricots, liquory raisins, citrus, nuts, brown sugar. Picks up intense flavors of dried fig and honey. Not truly viscous, there are recurring hints of sweetness in this slightly dry and balanced wine.
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L’Angolo di Vino, 6/16/2010
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Sicily, Part I
A recent trip to Persephone’s island afforded the opportunity to taste dozens of wines made from indigenous varietals, all of which captured the sun drenched, arid landscape of Sicily, and gave evidence of the cultural and enological diversity to be found there.
Chiara Planeta, one of fifteen cousins who operate the family winery at Sambuca di Sicilia, believes that Sicilian winemakers are at a critical point in elevating the image and quality of their wines in the international market. This was an opinion echoed by her colleagues in various parts of Sicily, from Etna to Trapani. If the following examples are representative of the future of Sicilian wines , they are on the proper course.
Benanti 2006 Nerello Mascalese “Rosso di Verzella” …Dense forest berries carry waves of flavor to a smooth, dark finish. Just enough rustic edge, with the acidity usually found in Etna wines.
Duca di Castelmonte 2009 Grillo “Notorious”…Rich golden color, slightly viscous look and texture. Soft citrus balanced with herb and mineral laced peaches. Full flavored and vibrant.
Castellucimiano 2007 Perricone…Somewhat floral with a touch of anise on the nose. Layers of dark cherries, berries and currants emerge. Persistant, with savory tannins and the typical Sicilian level of food friendly acidity.
Baglio Fici 2008 Inzolia…Mildly viscous and a mouthfeel that is almost amabile. Extremely ripe peaches and melons, layers of exotic fruitiness. Mildly herbaceous with dried flower aromas.
Castellucimiano 2009 Catarratto…Clean pure nose and flavors of apples, citrus fruits, pears, and native wild underbrush. Crisp, precise attack leads to a persistantly fruity finish with cleansing acidity.
Foraci 2008 Grillo…Floral, semi-tropical scents with hints of hazelnut. the palate is enlivened by zesty acidity, picks up some floral elements midway along with a “green” quality to the mildly ripe fruits. A bitter almond finish reminiscent of a Verdicchio.
Planeta 2009 Grecanico “Alastro“…Prior to this vintage “Alastro” was a blend with Chardonnay. The ’09 is fuller and more interesting, just as dense but more rounded, with notable structure for a white. White fruits, minerals, and floral nuances might remind some of Soave, but this has more staying power.
Planeta 2009 Passito di Noto…A lush Moscato dessert wine. Loads of aromas and flavors – apricots, orange peel, dates, a touch of vanilla. Dense and creamy with hints of pastry spices, wildflowers. A lively burst of acidity keeps the sweetness in check and cuts through the concentreted texture.
Abraxas 2008 “Kuddia Del Gallo“…WOW!! A dry version of Zibbibo, the Moscato used in Marsala. Has all the flowers and fruits of a passito, though not as concentrated. Lightly perfumed apricots and orange blossoms. Intense, yet uplifted by refreshing acidity. More floral as a secco. Unique and interesting, even for Sicily,drinks full for a white.
Part II next week…some more tasting notes and observations.
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A Peruvian-Cantonese Fermented Fracas
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On Wednesday June 23rd, The Wine School will hold it’s super-popular monthly Sommelier Smackdown.
Last month, we saw Eilon Gigi from Zahav come away with a hard-fought tie against Collin Flatt, the brash n’ blonde youngster on the Wine School roster.
This month, we welcome Christian Garces, Sommelier and beverage manager of Chifa to take on the elder statesman of the Wine School Brood, Frank Ciapparone.
After a few brief stints with a catering company in Chicago, Christian Garces joined the restaurant business full time in October 2005, when he moved from Chicago to Philadelphia to work as an opening manager at Amada, his brother, Chef Jose Garces’, first restaurant.
During his time there, he gained a deep knowledge of Spanish food and wine, including pairing and tasting, and brought that knowledge to Chifa as beverage manager when it opened in February 2009. Since then, he has worked to develop the restaurant’s beverage program, including cocktails, wine and beer that pair with Chifa’s unusual Latin-Asian cuisine.
In a unique twist this month, we will be having the menu designed and executed by the chefs at Chifa, and giving the visiting sommelier a bit of an edge. But, we’re sure our man Frank has a few tricks up his sleeve for the young Sr. Garces. This is sure to be an epic event, but as usual, it is quite sold out. So if you’re already on the roster, get ready for one hell of an evening. If not, we suggest you get yourself on over to our ticketing page for next months event!
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A Glass With the Cup
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It’s that time again. The quadrennial clash of football titans and global cultural phenomenon that is the World Cup. A chance for an international audience to get their xenophobia on…to wave flags and paint their faces in national colors. Or wear garish “native” outfits and toot vuvuzelos.
Since this coincides with the summer solstice, what better occcasion to sip light, refreshing white wines while cheering on your team of choice. True, not all the nations represented in South Africa are wine producers, but don’t let that stop you from quaffing one of these varietals. So wave a yellow card and pop the cork!
Portugal – Quinta de Azavedo Vinho Verde
France – Pascal Jolivet Sancerre ( Sauvignon Blanc)
Austria – Winzer Krems Gruner Veltliner
Italy – Planeta “La Segreta” Bianco
Argentina – Luiga Bosca Torrontes
Spain – Monte Clavio Rioja Blanco (Viura)
Greece – Boutari Moschifilero
Australia – Tahbilk Marsanne
Germany – JJ Prum Riesling Kabinett
South Africa – Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc (aka Steen)
As for the games themselves, all I can say is…FORZA ITALIA!!!
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