Sometimes you’ll hear a wine described as having “good juice“ and not be quite sure what that means. Cantine Due Palme’s “Le Sciare” provides an answer. Primitivo is so named not due to any feral, rough qualities but because the Benedictines who cultivated it noticed it as the first, or primo, grape to be harvested, usually by the third week of September.

This version is direct and uncomplicated, but not in any way a listless all-flavor-no-character wine. Scents of currants, dark cherries and blackberries with spicy highlights follow through on a concentrated texture of mouthfilling, jammy fruitiness that has loads of good juice – a balancing acidity and soft tannins.

“Le Sciare” is the bottle you open for those who still are uncertain of Italian wines, a modern expression that never loses sight of its territorio.

Those of you who have consistantly read reviews of Italian wines on this site are aware of a bias toward traditional wines that do not cater to notions of standardization. That doesn’t mean that a “modern” styled offering can’t be warmly received.

Lucciaio is the actual name of this Umbrian estate, and here we have a well crafted blend of Merlot (45%), Cab (40%), and native son Sangiovese (15%). The result is a wine of almost opaque density with aromas of sour cherry and tar over layers of darker, woodsy fruits. On the palate you experience a lively, savory intrerplay of sweet and sour, underripe cherries laced with peppery spices and a vaguely fennel-like element.

The finish is full bore and dry, displaying undertones of earth and mild vegetal qualities, possibly the green herbaciousness that sometimes comes from a dose of Cab  All in all, surprising – it’s non-traditional yet still unmistakeably Italian. Who said modern has to mean vapid?