Italian Pick of The Week
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Ornella Molon Raboso, 2003, Pieve DOC, Veneto Though it has been vinified since the pre-Roman era and was once an important wine for trade by Venetian merchants (when it was known as recaldina), Raboso literally lost ground to Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in the 1960s.
As was the case with many indigenous varietals, it might have been consigned to the enological scrap heap if not for the Confraternity of Raboso Pieve and producers committed to preserving wines that reflected cultural heritage and place.
Since 1982, Ornella Molon has developed a portfolio of wines that thrive in the organic alluvial soils in the Pieve River Valley near Treviso. They have restored Raboso to its post-1945 prominence in that area.
This is a complex, powerful wine of depth and extraction. Scents of flowewrs, berries, and spices evolve into well defined flavors of full-on red fruits and darker cherry, with touches of pepper. The finish is lengthy and built on solid tannins and a dry but not unpleasant bitterness. Interesting, unique, and challenging to the senses.
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Italian Pick of The Week 10/01/07
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Castello di Verduno Pelaverga “Basadone”, 2004, DOC, Piemonte
In a region famous for its Nebbiolo based wines there are a number of varietals that don’t get the attention they deserve, and this is one. Pelaverga is an ancient cultivar native to the Langhe, once planted alongside Barbera and Nebbiolo, but whose fortunes waned in the 20th century.
Starting in the 1970s single vineyards of the piccolo clone were planted in the fertile, hilly area around Verduno.The DOC zone remains small but productive.
This version displays all the varietal characteristics: a cherry red color resembling cranberry juice; scents of red berries and roses; a lightness atypical for a wine of 14% alcohol; refreshing acidity with notes of pepper and anise; and an arresting sensation of interplay between bitter and sweet.
No one is going to put down a Barbaresco in favor of this obscure beauty, but trying it reinforces the incredible breadth and diversity of Italian wines.
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Top Eight Wines for October
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Here are the top eight wines available in the PLCB stores in the good state of Pennslvania. Even if you don’t live here, these are worth seeking out. Don’t forget to check out our new wine glasses while you are here.
Primo Estate 2006 La Biondina, Adelaide $12
Grotto fresh! A simple and fun wine without any pretense. Think of your glass as one giant melon-baller and the wine is a big ripe… you get the idea.
To add to the “its so trashy its cool” vibe of this wine, it is made from Colombard (you’d typically find the grape in a $5 gallon jug, not in a fine wine.) The aromatics of cilantro and nectarine vault this wine and its quick zig-zag of minerality really turns this into great pleasure. Read more
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Italian Pick of The Week 9/24/07
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Roagna Dolcetto d’Alba, 2005, DOC, Piemonte
The name Dolcetto derives from dolcezza, meaning sweetness, and refers to the berries of the varietal, a quality that does not show up in the wines of its seven DOC zones.
Roagna is regarded as a producer of traditional Piemontese wines, and this Dolcetto is no exception. Late harvested grapes are unfiltered. Longer fermentation and maceration are evident in the depth of color and flavor extraction.
A delicate nose of mint and herbs is followed by a mouthful of juicy plum and blackberry.
The fruit shows impressive ripeness for this area and stays sharp and fresh right to the mildly bitter, foresty finish.
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A Wine Spectator Darling in the Works
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Alexander Valley Vineyards 2004 “Top of the Crop” Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley
A bottling from AVV’s new Reserve line, this Cabernet is a good step forward for this family-owned winery. The aromatics begin with a whiff of buttered popcorn flowing into fresh tobacco and basil along with a solid dose of blackberry. On the palate, the wine hits off with eucalyptus and graphite under a core of just-ripe cherries and hazelnuts. Tart cherries and cinnamon roll out in the end.
The Cabernet is definitely a middle-weight with high acidity and raw tannins that will soften after 3-6 years of aging. $35 retail. Wine Spectator will probably give this a 90-plus rating.
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Italian Pick of The Week, 9/18/07
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Cantine Cardeto “Rupestro”, 2002, IGT, Umbria
Even though Sangiovese is Italy’s most prolific and widely planted grape it is popularly associated with Tuscany- Chianti to be specific.
In the hils near Orvieto, blended with Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, and a touch of Merlot, it assumes a character unlike that of other Samgiovese styles from Umbria.
The nose is decidedly dark and fruity, as are the berry flavors that roll across the palate on a wave of smooth texture that slowly reveals depth and intensity.
From first swirl to final sip this ia a wine that showcases its pedigree and evokes the green heart of central Italy.
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Italian Pick of the Week 9/11/07
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Feudo Maccari “ReNoto”, 2005, IGT, Sicilia
Sicily is developing a reputation as the “California” of Italian wine, a region where ambiguous regulations allow winemakers latitude regarding production and freedom to experiment.
The inclusion of non-Italian grapes to the roster of exotic native varietals has added an international flair and expanded the palette of tastes.
This blend of Nero d’Avola and Syrah is definitely for those who favor New World wines - pleasantly juicy acidity, mild tannins, medium bodied, and eminently drinkable.
Cassis, blackberry, and dark plum flavors carry on through a finish accentuated by the characteristic peppery bite of Syrah. A modo nuovowine, a glimpse, perhaps, into the future of Sicily’s role in the global market.
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Italian Pick of The Week, 8/27/07
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Argiolas “Perdera”, Isola dei Nuraghi IGT, 2004
Monica is a varietal indigenous to Sardegna, believed to have been introduced, as was Cannonau, by Spanish monks in the 11th century.
There are two DOC zones where it predominates, however this version from a well known producer includes Carignano and Bovale Sardo to tone down some of Monica’s inherent Sardegnan rustic nature.
The result is an intense nose of plum and black pepper and an abundant dose of berries and “sweet” apple. The medium body has a plummy roundness and the bite of the aforementioned pepper backed by a pleasant acidity.
And as with so many of Italy’s lesser known regional wines it is best enjoyed as an accompaniment to hearty local fare such as grilled lamb, seasoned goat, and cheese with a fairly high fat content.
A wine to keep in mind for the coming days of Autumn.
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Italian Pick of The Week, 8/20/07
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Pieropan Soave Classico, 2004, Veneto…Thirty or forty years ago Soave, as was the case with its Tuscan cousin Chianti, suffered the ignominy of becoming a “brand” name, a generic term for mass produced, easy drinking Italian white wine. A lightweight in style and aesthetics, the Pinot Grigio of its day. Leonildo Pieropan and other astute producers brought the Garganega grape out of those dark ages and restored the reputation of one of Italy’s earliest DOC zones. His wines are notable for balance and finesse, for a crisply aromatic profile of minerals, peach, and melon. The same flavors cary through on a smooth, medium body accentuated by traces of slate and stone. The finish is deceptive - seemingly short, then a slow comeback that reintroduces minerality and reveals a floral quality. A wine that puts “classic” back into Classico.
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Lagar de Pintos Albarino, 2005
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Not that they needed it, but the recent infusion of Mediterranean themed “small plate” menus on the local dining scene has opened palates to the quality and value of Spanish wines. Tempranillo, garnacha, and all those riojopowerhouses, however, have kept exotic indigenous varietals on the fringes, and this full bodied biancofrom Rias Baixas in Spain’s northwest corner is one example. Golden and floral with a mouth coating texture, yet it retains a sense of clarity, crispness, and purity of flavor on waves of acidity that are neither overly ripe nor juicy.Citrus, white peaches, and melons stay focused on a long, pronounced finish. This is a lot of wine, so bring on the bacalao!
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