Italian Pick of The Week, 1/28/08
Selvapiana Chianti Rufina Riserva “Vigna Bucerchiale”, 2003, Toscana
Of the seven sub-zones of the Chianti DOCG outside the Classico area, Rufina is the most highly regarded. Tucked into the foothills approaching the regional border with Emilia-Romagna it’s production is dominated by Frescobaldi and Selvapiana.
Here Sangiovese becomes more aromatic and elegant. The somewhat cooler elevations bring out yet another dimension of this familiar, adaptablre grape. The source of Selvapiana’s single vineyard riserva contains the estate’s premier vines.
The ‘03 vintage shows the effects of the extreme heat that settled during the growing season. Paradoxically, it created this ripe and powerful “winter” wine with the tannic-acidic balance to drink well for another eight or nine years.
Intense, complex scents of cherry, mint, plum and earth emerge. Concentrated and dense cherry, spice and licorice flavors are backed by minerals and mildly toasty oak, with the always welcome earthiness that underlies classicly Tuscan wines. The overall effect is full yet smooth, leading to a warm, lingering finish.
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