Italian Pick of The Week, 7/15/07

Cusumano “benuara”, 2004, Sicily….Nero d’Avola has slowly gained credance as THE red grape of Sicily, combined here with Syrah to produce an interesting IGT wine that tones down the sometimes jammy, chewy quality of Nero and replaces the Marsala like sweetness that is oftimes on the finish with hints of coffee and subtle dry tobacco. The vaguely gamey signs of Syrah are integrated with full, rounded dark fruits that display a liquory texture akin to a young tawny Port, albeit with a balanced acidity. A novel take on an indiginous varietal.

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