Italian Pick of the Week, 8/06/07

Bertani “Le Lave”, 2002, Veneto…Old and New World styles synthesize in this full bodied,creamy blend born of volcanic soil that is the antithesis of vapid, watery white wines from the Veneto. Garganega, the basis of true Soave Classico, plays a 40% supporting role in this “Super Venetian” IGT to Chardonnay that has been fully fermented in oak prior to blending. The result is floral and spicy at first, turning to melon and pear flavors with an intriguing push-pull of mild sweetnes and salinity.The finish of green apple and toasted almonds shows none of the “woody” profile that the golden color and thoroughly rounded texture would suggest. If a white wine can be described as big but unobtrusive, this is it.

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