Italian Pick of The Week, 3/28/08
Filed Under The Wine World
Tomas and Giesen “Munir Bianco” 2006, IGT, Sicilia
Cataratto is one of the most widely planted grapes in Italy. It accounts for over half of Sicily’s vineyard acres and is known primarily for use as a bulk wine grape or as part of the blend for Marsala.
The Lucido variety grows in the Alcamo DOC near Palermo. Low in sugar and acidity it characteristically makes soft, mellow, undistinguished wines not unlike other whites found throughout Italy.
Thankfully, “Munir” is produced outside the box of DOC regulations. This 100% varietal has an exotic, fruity nose with floral undertones. Peaches, melon, and lemon oil pop up on the slightly effervescent mid-palate. Savory minerals and herbs add zest and freshness to the unoaked, pure mouthfeel. This is no lightweight, showing ample presence despite the low level of acidity.
Why Wine 101?
Filed Under The Wine World
It’s a legitimate question, really. Why, after all, is an understanding of wine so important? No one ever really thinks of increasing their Brussel’s sprout knowledge, or whole milk tasting abilities, or aptitude in teasing out all the complex nuances in spearmint chewing gum. So why wine–and why Wine 101?
Because it’s all around us. Because it is one of the very few things in life that can provide both infinite immediate pleasure and a direct link to our past. Because the range of experience possible in a single glass of wine is so great that you owe it to yourself to do everything you can to extract as much pleasure from it as you deserve.
Plus, the more you know about wine, the more adeptly you can wade through all those “myths that are too often bandied about”–in other words, wine pretense. A solid understanding of the major grape varieties, of their aroma and flavor characteristics, of what to pair them with and why we do all those strange rituals like swirling and slurping–all of this will ultimately enrich your life in ways you likely never imagined, because it will make your wine-drinking more enjoyable.
An item posted today in the excellent Din’s World blog addresses a number of questions that I suspect most people have about wine. Which, it seems to me, is itself a good answer to the question. So: Why Wine 101? Because the amount of pleasure a solid understanding of wine will bring to your life, and the way it will make every sip that much better, is nothing short of miraculous.
Italian Pick of The Week, 3/17/08
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Casanova di Neri Rosso di Montalcino, 2005, Toscana
Rosso di Montalcino was the first of the “little brother” wines to garner DOC classification based on a more prominent sibling, as have Rosso di Montefalco and Rosso di Montepulciano. Fruit that lacks the necessary concentration to become Brunello produces a lighter wine made available for release with only a year of aging.
Young and less evolved doesn’t mean second tier, especially from a producer with the estimable record of Neri. Their Brunello “Tenuta Nuova” 2001 was Wine Spectator’s “Wine of The Year” for 2006. At less than $20 their Rosso delivers quality bang for the bucks.
Up front it’s all dark fruit backed by earth and leather. By mid-palate the fruits mellow and take on more red berry/cherry flavors, smooth and better balanced than many Rossos, but not so manipulated as to lose its juvenile rustic nature. Pleasantly solid acidity carries the fruit, giving the tannins time to develop without sacrificing their Montalcino silky firmness.
B. Levet 2003 Cote Rotie “La Chavaroche”
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Typical of the hot 2003 vintage, the nose here is all raisin-y black currants, cherry liquour, and high-toned spice, as well as a pronounced black peppercorn bite. It actually reminds me, oddly enough, of a fresh-baked pappadum. On the palate, the tannins are brilliantly integrated, and there’s definitely more fresh fruit here than the nose lets on. It’s a beautiful wine right now, though those tannins and the balancing acidity promise a long life ahead.
Italian Pick of The Week, 3/3/08
Filed Under Wine Reviews
La Spinetta Barbera d’Asti Superiore “Bionzo”, 2003, Piemonte
This is one of the Piedmont’s larger and more succesful producers, all of whose wines are unfiltered, unfined and in most cases created using biodynamic methods.The “Bionzo” Barbera debuted in 1998 and only 3000 cases per year are made from truly old vines which have the benefit of southern exposure. Having spent 16 to 18 months in French oak that was mildly charred, this Barbera has the natural ingredients and enhancements to give pleasure for another twenty years or so.
This is a wine that is both approachable and generous now AND has aging potential. The nose is all dark fruits and Piedmontese terroir. The palate is full with black berries, currants and a lush and mouthfilling roundness. Undercurrents of tobacco mingle with vanilla and savory minerals backed by chalky tannins that are evident but not excessively dry, and fruity acidity.
One of the better Barberas to come to our attention.
Jean-Claude Thevenet et Fils 2006 St.-Veran Clos de l’Ermitage Cuvee Vieilles Vignes
Filed Under Wine Reviews
A distinctive nose of wet riverbank stones with just the slightest citrus lift leads the way to a surprisingly generous mid-palate rich with lemon oil. That stoniness and minerality comes back on the finish, bringing the wine back to almost exactly where it began. This would be a solid value at even $10 more. Drink now.
Italian Pick of The Week, 2/25/08
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Mauro Molino Barolo, 2000, Piemonte
What makes a Barolo truly great? Or how does one make a great Barolo? Two sides of the same coin in the ongoing debate among the “modernists” and “traditionalists” of Piemonte, who are both seeking the same goal - production of Barolos worthy of assuming the mantle of Wine of Kings, and King of Wines.
Mauro Molino’s Barolo would fit into the modernist camp, a wine already drinking well and fully realized from a stellar vintage. You are treated to the requisite Nebbiolo perfume of roses and earth, soft and inviting. This wine rolls onto the palate, layers of earth and tobacco carrying fruits that become darker mid-way through and continue to a finish of dry leaves. Unlike the old style Barolos that needed a decade or more of bottle aging to be tamed, the tannins are finely integrated with unobtrusive acidity that speak well of this wine’s potential to age gracefully.
Hendrick’s - The Lovely Anodyne
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Alchemists were the original apothecary. And what wonders they concocted. Dame Edith Sitwell’s English Eccentrics cites a long list of restoratives that were doled out in the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries to invalids suffering an array of ills. Along with sundry plants and herbs, ingredients included live hog lice, black tips of crab’s claws, the inward skin of a capon’s gizzard, goose dung, human skulls.
Remedies became more refined over the years, with a plethora of paregorics and soporifics coming to the fore in order to soothe what ailed ye, and yes, to help ye sleep.
Gin has a long history as a medicinal. It was first produced in
Now there is gin. And there is Hendrick’s Gin. Hendrick’s is a wondrous elixir that comes packaged in a quaint apothecary’s bottle reminiscent of the Victorian era. The apothecary bottle was originally intended to protect the healing powers possessed by the liquid within. It only makes sense that a gin as intricately flavored as Hendrick’s, as expressively powerful, as infused as it is with “delightfully odd” aromatics, would be bottled in such a vessel. Read more
Brian is Awesome
Filed Under The Wine World
Brian is known by many names. Son, Husband, Director, Author, Teacher. Those of us ground to dust under his mighty heel know him by another name. Champion. The hills of Philadelphia echo with the triumphs of the True and Just Champion Brian. There are dark rumors from the very pit of Harrisburg that he is riding west to sweep the city of those whom would stand up against him. To them I say, fear not, for there is no shame in falling in defeat against such an adversary. Brian is nothing sort of being exquisitely and profoundly Brian.
Some say that I should remain silent, that it is unseemly for the defeated to sing the praises of those who crushed them. But I say, this is work that must be done. I am the man who must speak the truth, since I was once this city’s greatest hope to end the shaggy-fisted rule of Brian. If I can praise the man, and speak to his enormous greatness, then perhaps there may be a few souls who think twice when challenging the wonderful and most awesome Brian. Perhaps I will save the reputations of a handful of foolhardy souls. Mostly, I am doing it because we had a wager going, and I am a man of my word. I lost by three *&$#%@%#$ points, dammit.
Let this be a warning to all of you –Celebrities and Sommeliers alike– who believe they can defeat Brian Freedman in a Sommelier Smackdown. Fools! You have been warned! Beware of the Champion, he will ride his pony to victory over your crushed dreams!
Keith Wallace
Founder
The Wine School of Philadelphi
Italian Pick of the Week, 2/18/08
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Cantine dei Colli Ripani Passerina “Ninfa Ripana”, 2004, Marche
Verdicchio has been the shining star of white wine from the Marche since Fazzi-Battaglia hit the market with its fish shaped bottle over thirty years ago.Lesser known whites were pushed even farther into the background.
The Offida zone in Ascoli Piceno province is a relatively new DOC, having attained that status in 2001. Here, those once forgotten grapes are given their due. Passerina, the local name for the more widely planted Biancame, has risen from blending obscurity to join the ranks of authentic and interesting native varietals. It is bottled in both dry and passito styles and some producers use it for Brut and Vin Santo.
This version combines the smoothness and mildly bitter nuttiness of Verdicchio with the hazelnut-dewy pine- resin of a Fiano from Campania. Neither of those stalwarts has the buzzy acidity, pinpoint flavors and minerality of this eye opener from the Ripana hills. Its texture and lively mouthfel make it a suitable companion for salty antipasti, shellfish, or fish-based soups.
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