Brian is Awesome
Filed Under The Wine World
Brian is known by many names. Son, Husband, Director, Author, Teacher. Those of us ground to dust under his mighty heel know him by another name. Champion. The hills of Philadelphia echo with the triumphs of the True and Just Champion Brian. There are dark rumors from the very pit of Harrisburg that he is riding west to sweep the city of those whom would stand up against him. To them I say, fear not, for there is no shame in falling in defeat against such an adversary. Brian is nothing sort of being exquisitely and profoundly Brian.
Some say that I should remain silent, that it is unseemly for the defeated to sing the praises of those who crushed them. But I say, this is work that must be done. I am the man who must speak the truth, since I was once this city’s greatest hope to end the shaggy-fisted rule of Brian. If I can praise the man, and speak to his enormous greatness, then perhaps there may be a few souls who think twice when challenging the wonderful and most awesome Brian. Perhaps I will save the reputations of a handful of foolhardy souls. Mostly, I am doing it because we had a wager going, and I am a man of my word. I lost by three *&$#%@%#$ points, dammit.
Let this be a warning to all of you –Celebrities and Sommeliers alike– who believe they can defeat Brian Freedman in a Sommelier Smackdown. Fools! You have been warned! Beware of the Champion, he will ride his pony to victory over your crushed dreams!
Keith Wallace
Founder
The Wine School of Philadelphi
Italian Pick of the Week, 2/18/08
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Cantine dei Colli Ripani Passerina “Ninfa Ripana”, 2004, Marche
Verdicchio has been the shining star of white wine from the Marche since Fazzi-Battaglia hit the market with its fish shaped bottle over thirty years ago.Lesser known whites were pushed even farther into the background.
The Offida zone in Ascoli Piceno province is a relatively new DOC, having attained that status in 2001. Here, those once forgotten grapes are given their due. Passerina, the local name for the more widely planted Biancame, has risen from blending obscurity to join the ranks of authentic and interesting native varietals. It is bottled in both dry and passito styles and some producers use it for Brut and Vin Santo.
This version combines the smoothness and mildly bitter nuttiness of Verdicchio with the hazelnut-dewy pine- resin of a Fiano from Campania. Neither of those stalwarts has the buzzy acidity, pinpoint flavors and minerality of this eye opener from the Ripana hills. Its texture and lively mouthfel make it a suitable companion for salty antipasti, shellfish, or fish-based soups.
Domaine Gauby 2004 “Les Calcinaires” Cotes du Roussillon Villages
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Rustic and classically styled, this wine is certainly not for everyone, though its deep-rooted sense of place and authenticity will make it irresistible to lovers of old-fashioned Languedoc-Roussillon bottlings. The nose smells of iron and warm ox blood at the start, but it’s cut with a velvety hint of sweet plum fruit. The tannic backbone here holds it all together beautifully, though I have a sneaking suspicion that a rare grilled rib-eye would soften it all up perfectly. The palate exhibits more purple fruit than you’d imagine, and it finishes with pronounced notes of thyme and mineral. Stock up on this one for barbecue season–I know I will.
Ramblings on a Smackdown
Filed Under The Wine World
by Beth Case
We were lunching at Amada – Keith and I – hoping to woo Eric Arnold with our Wine School ways. We wanted him to want us.
“I still don’t know what horrible and wicked thing passed between Eric and Keith”
Specifically, we wanted to turn him on to the idea of participating in a Smackdown against Keith. After all, he is a very respected editor at an popular wine magazine and the author of the wonderful book First Big Crush.
It was going well enough, I thought, to leave Keith alone with Eric and I excused myself to the Ladies Room. It was painfully obvious, upon my return, that in the short amount of time that I was away something had happened. Something unspeakable.
“Something had happened. Something unspeakable.”
Best Wine Buys
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Prices are for Pennsylvania. Prices in other states will vary. To find any of these wines, make sure to use our Wine Finder!
Domaine du Coulet 2004 Cornas Terrasses du Serre
$28.99
A classic style, with minimal oak and blended from several slopes within Cornas. The traditional approach is quite evident on the palate. More delicate than most, this syrah leads with a soft medley of red fruits and gradually intensifies into a thick beam of mineral and ending with a curtain of milk chocolate.
Allan Scott 2006 Pinot Noir, Marlborough
$20
A wee bit rounder than a Pinot should be, but a very pretty wine. Soft and ripe cranberries and a touch of earth and cinnamon on the palate. A nice mineral-laced finish.
Tait 2006 Ballbuster Shiraz, Barossa
$15
The PLCB is flooding us with high-octane shiraz these days, and this is the best of the bunch. Ink-black with a nose of intense blackberry and tobacco, it rolls out a dense palate of jammy fruit. This baby is not so much a fruit bomb as a fuel-injected fruit jet strapped to the back of a cute bunny.
La Louviere 2005 Pessac-Leognan
$40
One of the greatest strengths of Bordeaux is its history. Saying this wine is historic would leave one with the wrong impression. Rather, it is the perfect snapshot of the 2005 vintage. There is a harmony between freshness and tannins that cry out for a few years in the cellar. The smoke, spice, and cigar box flavors all play their parts perfectly.
Vincentini 2006 Terre Lunghe Soave
$14.99
A rare beauty. Mint, lavender, and lemon zest rest upon the nose. Razor-like citrus and fresh melon on the body and finish.
Le Manoir Galhaud 2003 Cuvee Leon Bordeaux
$15.49
One of the better bordeaux values available today. This still has the raw force and intensity of the ‘03 vintage, although this is defiantly something and not cellar.
Magpie 2003 The Schnell Grenache/Shiraz
$8.99
Great juice & its really really cheap.
Mastroberardino 2004 Falanghina
$11.99
Falanghina is typically rich for a white and just a bit decadent. This one does not disappoint. Ripe melon and stone fruits on the palate. Lovely.
Italian Pick of The Week, 2/04/08
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Gaudio Grignolino “Brico Mandolino”, 2005, DOC, Piemonte
One of the fascinating aspects of Italian wine is the number of varietals that are under the radar, especially in areas of renown such as Tuscany and the Piedmont. It’s hard to acquire cachet when you’re up against Brunello and Classico, Barolo and Barbaresco….which is the fate of Grignolino.
Grown in the communes of Asti and Monferrato Casale since Medieval times, the name may come from the local dialect term for grape seed. Typically it has high levels of acidity and surprisingly strong tannins for a wine that is Pinot-like in color. In fact, one of it’s many local aliases is Nebbiolo Rosato.
This single vineyard version from Gaudio was harvested late to enhance its depth and extraction of flavor and pigment. Whereas some Grignolinos can be light and almost effervescent, this shows an integration of fruit and tannins in a balanced structure. Faint scents of roses can be found on a subtle nose. Just ripe enough red fruit is accompanied by white pepper and a dash of mildly tingling minerals. The overall effect is refreshing and eminently drinkable.
Because of the cutting acidity it can hold its own with cheese based dishes or creamy sauces, as well as aged local cheeses and crudo.
Italian Pick of The Week, 1/28/08
Filed Under The Wine World
Selvapiana Chianti Rufina Riserva “Vigna Bucerchiale”, 2003, Toscana
Of the seven sub-zones of the Chianti DOCG outside the Classico area, Rufina is the most highly regarded. Tucked into the foothills approaching the regional border with Emilia-Romagna it’s production is dominated by Frescobaldi and Selvapiana.
Here Sangiovese becomes more aromatic and elegant. The somewhat cooler elevations bring out yet another dimension of this familiar, adaptablre grape. The source of Selvapiana’s single vineyard riserva contains the estate’s premier vines.
The ‘03 vintage shows the effects of the extreme heat that settled during the growing season. Paradoxically, it created this ripe and powerful “winter” wine with the tannic-acidic balance to drink well for another eight or nine years.
Intense, complex scents of cherry, mint, plum and earth emerge. Concentrated and dense cherry, spice and licorice flavors are backed by minerals and mildly toasty oak, with the always welcome earthiness that underlies classicly Tuscan wines. The overall effect is full yet smooth, leading to a warm, lingering finish.
Italian Pick of The Week 1/21/08
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Cantina Cardeto “Rupestro”, 2005, IGT, Umbria
Sangiovese is the most Italian of grapes, planted in almost every region and showing up in scores of classified wines, either on its own or in highly coveted (and high priced!) blends. It would be hard to find lovers of Italian wines who haven’t sampled its rustic, food friendly pleasures.
Many people associate the varietal solely with Tuscany, or more exactly, with Chianti in all its manifestations. Grown elsewhere on the peninsula and depending on which of its hundreds of site specific variations are vinified, this adaptable grape produces a wide array of styles.
Cardeto’s Sangioivese is blended with Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo and Montepulciano. The result is a full bodied and dry wine with an aromatic, intense nose that is all Italy. Loads of dark fruit fill the mouth, smooth layers of savory berries, herbs and earth…all the things we’ve come to expect from a Tuscan Sangiovese but are surprised to encounter in one from the hills near Orvieto, more known for white wines made from Trebbiano.
Italian Pick of The Week 1/14/08
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Enzo Mecella Verdicchio di Matelica “Pagliano”, 2006, Le Marche
Verdicchio is the sole white varietal of note in a region whose lush, well crafted red wines are slowly garnering adherants.
Of the two DOC zones producing Verdicchio, Castelli di Jesi hard by the Adriatic is the more recognized, having come full cycle from a decades long funk of mass produced plonk. The lesser known interior area around Matelica benefits from a continental climate that allows for a later harvest, with grapes that are more aromatic and concentrated.
Sampled in concert with a Verdicchio from Jesi, Mecella’s exhibits a striking intensity and definite structure. The varietal fingerprints of herbs, green fruit, and a mildly bitter nuttiness are evident, but with an edginess and texture that seem more “red”. Floral notes and the faint hint if citrus round out the profile.
This is another example of a distinctive white that gives off attitude and finesse, an antidote to the rivers of insipid wines rolling out of northern Italy.
The UC Davis Diary
Filed Under The Wine World
My former student Jenny S. is a first year grad student in the Oenology & Viticulture Department of University of California at Davis. Her emails about her first year have been a great read. She gave me permission to reprint portions of them here. Thanks, Jenny!
I just got back from helping out at Folio, one of Michael Mondavi’s new wineries. A first year V&E master’s girl is working there for harvest so another new girl in the program went to work with her to get a feel for the winery world (since her and I are the only 2 kids in the program with no winery experience). It was fun. I bulked up my biceps doing some punch downs.
I was there about 2 weeks ago when we were visiting Napa and I managed to insult the Mondavi name infront of Robert Mondavi Jr. (not knowing who he was). Yea, leave it up to me to put my foot in my mouth … But he took it pretty well and I managed to turn it into a joke and just kept going with it.
They said they had some good laughs for the next week at my expense. Thought you would appreciate that. Some punk-ass Philadelphia kid coming out to Napa and telling Robert Mondavi that “the Mondavi’s like to throw their name around to get anything they want”
Keep ‘em coming, Jenny!
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