Italian Pick of The Week, 3/3/08
Filed Under Wine Reviews
La Spinetta Barbera d’Asti Superiore “Bionzo”, 2003, Piemonte
This is one of the Piedmont’s larger and more succesful producers, all of whose wines are unfiltered, unfined and in most cases created using biodynamic methods.The “Bionzo” Barbera debuted in 1998 and only 3000 cases per year are made from truly old vines which have the benefit of southern exposure. Having spent 16 to 18 months in French oak that was mildly charred, this Barbera has the natural ingredients and enhancements to give pleasure for another twenty years or so.
This is a wine that is both approachable and generous now AND has aging potential. The nose is all dark fruits and Piedmontese terroir. The palate is full with black berries, currants and a lush and mouthfilling roundness. Undercurrents of tobacco mingle with vanilla and savory minerals backed by chalky tannins that are evident but not excessively dry, and fruity acidity.
One of the better Barberas to come to our attention.
Jean-Claude Thevenet et Fils 2006 St.-Veran Clos de l’Ermitage Cuvee Vieilles Vignes
Filed Under Wine Reviews
A distinctive nose of wet riverbank stones with just the slightest citrus lift leads the way to a surprisingly generous mid-palate rich with lemon oil. That stoniness and minerality comes back on the finish, bringing the wine back to almost exactly where it began. This would be a solid value at even $10 more. Drink now.
Italian Pick of The Week, 2/25/08
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Mauro Molino Barolo, 2000, Piemonte
What makes a Barolo truly great? Or how does one make a great Barolo? Two sides of the same coin in the ongoing debate among the “modernists” and “traditionalists” of Piemonte, who are both seeking the same goal - production of Barolos worthy of assuming the mantle of Wine of Kings, and King of Wines.
Mauro Molino’s Barolo would fit into the modernist camp, a wine already drinking well and fully realized from a stellar vintage. You are treated to the requisite Nebbiolo perfume of roses and earth, soft and inviting. This wine rolls onto the palate, layers of earth and tobacco carrying fruits that become darker mid-way through and continue to a finish of dry leaves. Unlike the old style Barolos that needed a decade or more of bottle aging to be tamed, the tannins are finely integrated with unobtrusive acidity that speak well of this wine’s potential to age gracefully.
Hendrick’s - The Lovely Anodyne
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Alchemists were the original apothecary. And what wonders they concocted. Dame Edith Sitwell’s English Eccentrics cites a long list of restoratives that were doled out in the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries to invalids suffering an array of ills. Along with sundry plants and herbs, ingredients included live hog lice, black tips of crab’s claws, the inward skin of a capon’s gizzard, goose dung, human skulls.
Remedies became more refined over the years, with a plethora of paregorics and soporifics coming to the fore in order to soothe what ailed ye, and yes, to help ye sleep.
Gin has a long history as a medicinal. It was first produced in
Now there is gin. And there is Hendrick’s Gin. Hendrick’s is a wondrous elixir that comes packaged in a quaint apothecary’s bottle reminiscent of the Victorian era. The apothecary bottle was originally intended to protect the healing powers possessed by the liquid within. It only makes sense that a gin as intricately flavored as Hendrick’s, as expressively powerful, as infused as it is with “delightfully odd” aromatics, would be bottled in such a vessel. Read more
Brian is Awesome
Filed Under The Wine World
Brian is known by many names. Son, Husband, Director, Author, Teacher. Those of us ground to dust under his mighty heel know him by another name. Champion. The hills of Philadelphia echo with the triumphs of the True and Just Champion Brian. There are dark rumors from the very pit of Harrisburg that he is riding west to sweep the city of those whom would stand up against him. To them I say, fear not, for there is no shame in falling in defeat against such an adversary. Brian is nothing sort of being exquisitely and profoundly Brian.
Some say that I should remain silent, that it is unseemly for the defeated to sing the praises of those who crushed them. But I say, this is work that must be done. I am the man who must speak the truth, since I was once this city’s greatest hope to end the shaggy-fisted rule of Brian. If I can praise the man, and speak to his enormous greatness, then perhaps there may be a few souls who think twice when challenging the wonderful and most awesome Brian. Perhaps I will save the reputations of a handful of foolhardy souls. Mostly, I am doing it because we had a wager going, and I am a man of my word. I lost by three *&$#%@%#$ points, dammit.
Let this be a warning to all of you –Celebrities and Sommeliers alike– who believe they can defeat Brian Freedman in a Sommelier Smackdown. Fools! You have been warned! Beware of the Champion, he will ride his pony to victory over your crushed dreams!
Keith Wallace
Founder
The Wine School of Philadelphi
Italian Pick of the Week, 2/18/08
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Cantine dei Colli Ripani Passerina “Ninfa Ripana”, 2004, Marche
Verdicchio has been the shining star of white wine from the Marche since Fazzi-Battaglia hit the market with its fish shaped bottle over thirty years ago.Lesser known whites were pushed even farther into the background.
The Offida zone in Ascoli Piceno province is a relatively new DOC, having attained that status in 2001. Here, those once forgotten grapes are given their due. Passerina, the local name for the more widely planted Biancame, has risen from blending obscurity to join the ranks of authentic and interesting native varietals. It is bottled in both dry and passito styles and some producers use it for Brut and Vin Santo.
This version combines the smoothness and mildly bitter nuttiness of Verdicchio with the hazelnut-dewy pine- resin of a Fiano from Campania. Neither of those stalwarts has the buzzy acidity, pinpoint flavors and minerality of this eye opener from the Ripana hills. Its texture and lively mouthfel make it a suitable companion for salty antipasti, shellfish, or fish-based soups.
Domaine Gauby 2004 “Les Calcinaires” Cotes du Roussillon Villages
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Rustic and classically styled, this wine is certainly not for everyone, though its deep-rooted sense of place and authenticity will make it irresistible to lovers of old-fashioned Languedoc-Roussillon bottlings. The nose smells of iron and warm ox blood at the start, but it’s cut with a velvety hint of sweet plum fruit. The tannic backbone here holds it all together beautifully, though I have a sneaking suspicion that a rare grilled rib-eye would soften it all up perfectly. The palate exhibits more purple fruit than you’d imagine, and it finishes with pronounced notes of thyme and mineral. Stock up on this one for barbecue season–I know I will.
Ramblings on a Smackdown
Filed Under The Wine World
by Beth Case
We were lunching at Amada – Keith and I – hoping to woo Eric Arnold with our Wine School ways. We wanted him to want us.
“I still don’t know what horrible and wicked thing passed between Eric and Keith”
Specifically, we wanted to turn him on to the idea of participating in a Smackdown against Keith. After all, he is a very respected editor at an popular wine magazine and the author of the wonderful book First Big Crush.
It was going well enough, I thought, to leave Keith alone with Eric and I excused myself to the Ladies Room. It was painfully obvious, upon my return, that in the short amount of time that I was away something had happened. Something unspeakable.
“Something had happened. Something unspeakable.”
Best Wine Buys
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Prices are for Pennsylvania. Prices in other states will vary. To find any of these wines, make sure to use our Wine Finder!
Domaine du Coulet 2004 Cornas Terrasses du Serre
$28.99
A classic style, with minimal oak and blended from several slopes within Cornas. The traditional approach is quite evident on the palate. More delicate than most, this syrah leads with a soft medley of red fruits and gradually intensifies into a thick beam of mineral and ending with a curtain of milk chocolate.
Allan Scott 2006 Pinot Noir, Marlborough
$20
A wee bit rounder than a Pinot should be, but a very pretty wine. Soft and ripe cranberries and a touch of earth and cinnamon on the palate. A nice mineral-laced finish.
Tait 2006 Ballbuster Shiraz, Barossa
$15
The PLCB is flooding us with high-octane shiraz these days, and this is the best of the bunch. Ink-black with a nose of intense blackberry and tobacco, it rolls out a dense palate of jammy fruit. This baby is not so much a fruit bomb as a fuel-injected fruit jet strapped to the back of a cute bunny.
La Louviere 2005 Pessac-Leognan
$40
One of the greatest strengths of Bordeaux is its history. Saying this wine is historic would leave one with the wrong impression. Rather, it is the perfect snapshot of the 2005 vintage. There is a harmony between freshness and tannins that cry out for a few years in the cellar. The smoke, spice, and cigar box flavors all play their parts perfectly.
Vincentini 2006 Terre Lunghe Soave
$14.99
A rare beauty. Mint, lavender, and lemon zest rest upon the nose. Razor-like citrus and fresh melon on the body and finish.
Le Manoir Galhaud 2003 Cuvee Leon Bordeaux
$15.49
One of the better bordeaux values available today. This still has the raw force and intensity of the ‘03 vintage, although this is defiantly something and not cellar.
Magpie 2003 The Schnell Grenache/Shiraz
$8.99
Great juice & its really really cheap.
Mastroberardino 2004 Falanghina
$11.99
Falanghina is typically rich for a white and just a bit decadent. This one does not disappoint. Ripe melon and stone fruits on the palate. Lovely.
Italian Pick of The Week, 2/04/08
Filed Under Wine Reviews
Gaudio Grignolino “Brico Mandolino”, 2005, DOC, Piemonte
One of the fascinating aspects of Italian wine is the number of varietals that are under the radar, especially in areas of renown such as Tuscany and the Piedmont. It’s hard to acquire cachet when you’re up against Brunello and Classico, Barolo and Barbaresco….which is the fate of Grignolino.
Grown in the communes of Asti and Monferrato Casale since Medieval times, the name may come from the local dialect term for grape seed. Typically it has high levels of acidity and surprisingly strong tannins for a wine that is Pinot-like in color. In fact, one of it’s many local aliases is Nebbiolo Rosato.
This single vineyard version from Gaudio was harvested late to enhance its depth and extraction of flavor and pigment. Whereas some Grignolinos can be light and almost effervescent, this shows an integration of fruit and tannins in a balanced structure. Faint scents of roses can be found on a subtle nose. Just ripe enough red fruit is accompanied by white pepper and a dash of mildly tingling minerals. The overall effect is refreshing and eminently drinkable.
Because of the cutting acidity it can hold its own with cheese based dishes or creamy sauces, as well as aged local cheeses and crudo.
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